grundig: Connector type

What type connector does this use? I tried a pl-259 and it

Does not work.

• Connector (90 KB)

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.

It might be a non-standard "metric" PL-259 connector, using a M16 fine thread instead of the standardized UNEF 5/8-24 thread. I have encountered those metric connectors on some old italian and japanese equipment.

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.

The center pin is way too big also.

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.

Can someone translate the german manual on this site so that I know which terminals do what on the meter. I believe the outer 2 banana ports are for a/c voltage and the center one for RF. Thanks

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.

Hello Mr. Oneill,

I own a Grundig RV11 which has similar connectors. I'm astonished the PL-plug didn't fit - mine does.
Also the description of the TV1 shows "international used rf-connector" which is the PL-259 ...

The manual of the TV1 states that one can use cables with banana plugs (gnd is the right socket (7) ).

Kind regards,

D. Consales

P.S.: when I look at your plug - that seems not to be PL-259 at all

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.

Your PL529 looks like a cheap crimp one. regular ones don't have the tip. I have had cheap PL529 connectors with a poor thread.

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.

Thanks for the help guys. I have a more serious problem. I connected the

Outer probes to a/c and it sparked like an arc welder. Neither side of the

Plug goes to the chassis. What is causing this? Maybe the ports are wrong, i cant read 

The german instructions.

• Grundig_tv1 (51 KB)

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.

These are both ground (there is a mistake in the description, 8 + 9 is the output, but 8 is the gnd, not 9)

Your input should be fed to the center of the coax socket (4mm banana plug) and gnd (7 or 8).

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.

I put a/c voltage to 8 and the center coax, nothing.

• Coax (99 KB)

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.

Normal operation is in position "300ms" ...

- first before switching on adjust the meter to zero position

- now switch on without any connection to the input. Toggle between "Eichen/cal. V" and "300ms". The reading should be the same in both positions. If it's not you can calibrate that with the screw in the center of the device (4).

- now you can switch to "300ms" and connect your voltage to 6(coax center) + 7

If that does not work you'll have to find the error in the device ...

P.S.: device should be 10 minutes on before calibration

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.

Still does nothing. This is an ac meter, right. Probably needs

To be recapped. Its 65 years old. Meter has lots of caps.

• Cap2 (117 KB)
• Cap1 (92 KB)

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.

You can try - but I wouldn't without a good reason. There are many voltages in the circuit diagram you could check first and go from there. Even a tube can be bad so changing all caps imho does not make much sense before that. Sometimes it works - but what if not?

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.

That looks like a polyester cap beside the Electrolytic. They are likelyu OK. Only non-hermetic paper capacitors need replaced wholesale.
The metal can electrolytic caps usually reform if the rubber end hasn't cracked and allowed it to dry out.

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.

I will check the voltages per the schematic but.....it states on the bottom of the schematic  voltages are with 200v. I am using 120v usa. Is that an issue?

• voltage (18 KB)

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.

Unless there is a setting for 115V, you'll need a transformer to 220V.

However the model page writes that it also supports 120V.  I also can see the mains transformer has a 120V tap on the input.

Possibly the mains fuse is positioned for 120V or 220V input as I see two fuse holder at the mains cable.

Then the circuit diagram voltages are the same as for 220V mains. 

 

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.

Thanks Michael for that input. Daniel, you said that normal operation is 300ms but but looking

at the schematic 300ms comes off the 6.3v transformer and goes no where. 30ms go to the meter. Any thoughts?

• schem (138 KB)

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.

I tested the ECF80 tube and the pentode is bad. The site says this tube is the same as a 6BL8 but my hickok tester has different settings for these and the 6Bl8 settings do not work. Same with the EF85, its not the same as the 6CF8. The settings for the 6CF8 do not work for the EF85. If the ECF80 pentode is bad can the meter not function?

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.

Your fotos show the fuse in position 120V - so the readings have to be the same.

Regarding the 300ms: that's what the description says :-)

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.

The ac from 6,3V goes there AND to the voltage devider for the calibration process.  The result has to be the same in both positions. So the amplifier has to be adjusted so that the loss through the devider gets compensated which leads to the same reading like before. Hope that is understandable (?)

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.

ECF80 and 6BL8 are interchangeable. The Hickok testers are mostly good/fail testers for new tubes and not so very useful. Also compare the Hickock settings with actual pin data.

The 6CF8 is an EF86. And EF86 and EF85 are not interchangeable.

An EF85 is interchangeable with a 6BY7

  EDIT Maybe you typed EF85 by mistake? The Grundig meter does use an EF86

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.

I would replace the selenium rectifier with a silicon bridge or 4 x 1N4007. Maybe put 100 Ohms 2.5W in series with either input or + out (which ever is easiest) if HT is too high.

Even if it's working now it will fail.

Check the HT voltages first, then if OK: cathode voltages and anode voltages.

IF HT voltages are all OK

The Cathode voltages being 50% low means the tube is low emission. I'd not worry if 25% low. No cathode voltage means the tube is dead, or socket is faulty as there is no negative supply.
 

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.

C32 0.1uF on EF86 anode should be examined. Replace if a paper type. The moulded pale mustard capacitors are plastic film and should be fine.

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.

Yes typo, should be ef86 and its different then the 6cf8. Hickok is the

Best tester available.

• Tube_6cf8-min (406 KB)
• Hickok_1-min (637 KB)
• Hickok_2-min (618 KB)

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.

Now i know why americans say stay away from german stuff,

Its a pain to work on. Dont see the selenium rectifier. Hidden

Electrolytics probably are bad. Resistor unknown value

Looks burned. Bulb (good) does not come on, no voltage

But transformer puts out 6.3v. This meter holds a charge

For a long time and shocks.

• Parts (1398 KB)
• Caps-min (1069 KB)

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.

Looks like the rectifier is right before your eyes - above the burned resistor you showed ;-)

The resistor starts with blue/grey so "68?" so it will be R27 - so no wonder nothing works, the tubes dont get anode voltages.

I can understand your frustration but in my experiences  maintanance on _every_ measuring instrument is a pita regardless of the vendor

P.S.: and it holds the voltage because the failure of the resistor ...

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.

Hickock is a basic go/fail shop tester.

See the Avo VCM163 or even the VCM Mk IV (which some Belfast retail TV & Radio shops still had in 1966+).

I've used and restored all three models.

There is no problem with old Grundig or German stuff 1950s to 1970s, it's just not what you are used to.

Take out the tubes and the selenium bridge Likely about 1.25" square 1/4" thick aluminium "wafer" with 4 terminals bolted to chassis. Then feed the HT rail from a 30V DC PSU current limited to about 10mA. This will reform the electrolytics. Any Electrolytics where the current doesn't fall to less than 1mA or that are open circuit after 4 hours are faulty.

I've also restored Grundig radios and tape. Multiple USA RCA and Hallicrafters radios.  

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.

Why did they use huge capacitors in parallel to get 100uf. There are 3

Of them.

• Monster (1582 KB)

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.

The power chord has 3 connectors that go to the board. Red is cut 

Off at the power plug.

• Plug (91 KB)
• Chord (114 KB)

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.

Regarding the electrolytic capacitors, its possible that the designers chose to use that type of capacitors because it was cheap and used in large numbers in mass produced radios etc. Maybe a reason for distributing the capacitance in several cans was to increase life of the capacitors by sharing the ripple current between them.

Regarding the mains cord, the colors according to german standards from that time are as follows:

Black - phase

White or light grey - neutral

Red - protective ground

It is common - but dangerous - that the ground wire is cut in measuring instruments, if some user has had problems with hum due to ground loops or wanted to make measurements in AC/DC sets or televisions with "hot" chassis, without using a proper isolation transformer.

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.

I was thinking of putting a 3 prong ac plug on the power

Cord but i noticed the schematic does not show one.

To thank the Author because you find the post helpful or well done.