PRM1141M Ch= 10S2

Admiral (brand) Continental Radio & Television Co.; Chicago, IL

Data
Forum
Pictures
Collections

  • Year
  • 1970 ??
  • Category
  • Broadcast Receiver - or past WW2 Tuner
  • Radiomuseum.org ID
  • 237355
    • alternative name: Continental Radio & TV

 Technical Specifications

  • Main principle
  • Superheterodyne (common); ZF/IF 455/10700 kHz
  • Wave bands
  • Wave Bands given in the notes.
  • Power type and voltage
  • Line / Batteries (any type) / 120 / 4 x 1,5 Volt
  • Loudspeaker
  • Permanent Magnet Dynamic (PDyn) Loudspeaker (moving coil)
  • Material
  • Leather / canvas / plastic - over other material
  • from Radiomuseum.org
  • Model: PRM1141M Ch= 10S2 - Admiral brand Continental
  • Shape
  • Portable set > 8 inch (also usable without mains)
  • Notes

  • Admiral Portable Multiband Radio Receiver Model PRM1141M Chassis 10S2.
    LW, AM, MB, SW1, SW2, FM, AIR, PSB.
    Telescopic antenna, carrying handle.
    Made in Japan.

  • Author
  • Model page created by Franz Scharner. See "Data change" for further contributors.

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Forum contributions about this model: Admiral brand: PRM1141M Ch= 10S2

Threads: 1 | Posts: 1

...Also for Signet P369 & Wynford Hall 24F18

Note: Turn tuning capacitors fully clockwise (high end) before installing on pulleys in the position shown in diagram. As of this writing, you can view an image of it here.

The best width of zero-stretch, braided cord to use is around .3mm but .4mm will also work.  

1) Stop after each drum and pulley winding. Test by moving the FM drum back and forth the entire rotation while grasping the unstrung end of the cord tightly with your other hand. Make sure everything turns freely. Try to prevent the cord from crisscrossing.

2) In the original winding around the FM drum, the cord would actually pass under (vertically) another turn at the point it emerged from an anchor point (initial knot or spring anchoring). A bit of overlap of windings is okay with .4mm cord, but there must be no kinks.

3) If a kink is discovered, you must completely unwind the cord around that pulley or drum and start it over. Use pieces of tape to secure the work you have done up to that point. Don't forget to remove the tape before you test the next winding point.

4) You must use the recommended number of turns around the pulley sections on each side of the pointer plain. If you don't, the pointer will not have enough slack to move across the entire dial.

5) If the original spring is rusty or broken, there are a wide variety of small replacement springs that will work. But it has to be quite tight with no kinks along any drums or pulley. Cut the spring to size if necessary.

Jeffrey Gill, 06.Sep.24

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